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Normally, trays are made in
acrylic plastic or glazed ceramics. The latter are dearer, but much
longer-lasting, as acrylics can crack. Both types are available in standard
sanitary-ware colours, so if you have a modern coloured bathroom suite, you
should be able to match it. Trays come in a range of sizes, so be sure to
choose one to fit the space you have, since obviously the size of tray governs
the area your installation will take up. Ceramic trays can also be very heavy
so its likely youll need help to get one into position.
The tray will have a waste
outlet, and this may be in one corner, or in the middle of one side. It must be
sited so that its waste pipe can discharge conveniently into a hopper of a
two-pipe system, or be connected up to an existing waste pipe, or to the main
stack of a single-pipe system. The waste pipe must slope downwards all the way,
and it is important to get the fall right in order to drain water away
efficiently. In general, the fall should be between 6 and 50mm per 300mm run of
pipe (1/4 to 2in per ft) depending on the length of the run (measured from the
actual waste outlet). Too steep a run can produce a siphonage effect that will
drain the water out of the trap, thus depriving your home of its protection
from drain smells. Its a good idea to set a fall of 25mm (1 in) per 300mm for
a short run of say 600 to 900mm (2 to 3ft), but only a 12mm (½1n) tall where
the run will be 3 to 4.5m (10 to l5ft).
Most shower trays are
square, and obviously these can be turned round to place the outlet in the most
convenient position. However, for installation in a corner, triangular shaped
trays, or quadrants with two straight sides at right angles and a curved
front are on sale, but theyre quite expensive.
The outlet does not have a
plug, because it is never the intention that the tray should be filled up.
Since there is no plug, no overflow is required. However, like all your
bathroom fittings, it must have a trap. This should be 38mm (1 l/2n) in
diameter but, like a bath, does not have to be of the deep-seal variety.
Some trays are designed to
have enough depth to enable the trap to be installed above floor level. Others
are quite shallow, and the trap must go under the floor, a point to bear in
mind if you have a concrete floor.
Yet another possibility is
to mount the tray on supports, to raise its height, and some manufacturers sell
special supports to raise the tray off the ground. Otherwise you can use bricks
or timber, suitably disguised by a plinth. Its a good idea to provide an
inspection panel should you ever want to get access to the plumbing. Whatever
the case, you will never have good access to the outlet plumbing after its
been installed so be sure to make a good job of it.
Providing a cubicle
A shower tray is best
positioned in a corner, so that two sides of the shower enclosure are already
provided by the shower tray itself; you can bridge the gap with timber covered
with tiles set flush with the top of the tray.
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