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 Normally, trays are made in

acrylic plastic or glazed ceramics. The latter are dearer, but much

longer-lasting, as acrylics can crack. Both types are available in standard

sanitary-ware colours, so if you have a modern coloured bathroom suite, you

should be able to match it. Trays come in a range of sizes, so be sure to

choose one to fit the space you have, since obviously the size of tray governs

the area your installation will take up. Ceramic trays can also be very heavy

so it’s likely you’ll need help to get one into position.

 The tray will have a waste

outlet, and this may be in one corner, or in the middle of one side. It must be

sited so that its waste pipe can discharge conveniently into a hopper of a

two-pipe system, or be connected up to an existing waste pipe, or to the main

stack of a single-pipe system. The waste pipe must slope downwards all the way,

and it is important to get the fall right in order to drain water away

efficiently. In general, the fall should be between 6 and 50mm per 300mm run of

pipe (1/4 to 2in per ft) depending on the length of the run (measured from the

actual waste outlet). Too steep a run can produce a siphonage effect that will

drain the water out of the trap, thus depriving your home of its protection

from drain smells. It’s a good idea to set a fall of 25mm (1 in) per 300mm for

a short run of say 600 to 900mm (2 to 3ft), but only a 12mm (½1n) tall where

the run will be 3 to 4.5m (10 to l5ft).

 Most shower trays are

square, and obviously these can be turned round to place the outlet in the most

convenient position. However, for installation in a corner, triangular shaped

trays, or quadrants — with two straight sides at right angles and a curved

front — are on sale, but they’re quite expensive.

 The outlet does not have a

plug, because it is never the intention that the tray should be filled up.

Since there is no plug, no overflow is required. However, like all your

bathroom fittings, it must have a trap. This should be 38mm (1 l/2n) in

diameter but, like a bath, does not have to be of the deep-seal variety.

 Some trays are designed to

have enough depth to enable the trap to be installed above floor level. Others

are quite shallow, and the trap must go under the floor, a point to bear in

mind if you have a concrete floor.

 Yet another possibility is

to mount the tray on supports, to raise its height, and some manufacturers sell

special supports to raise the tray off the ground. Otherwise you can use bricks

or timber, suitably disguised by a plinth. Its a good idea to provide an

inspection panel should you ever want to get access to the plumbing. Whatever

the case, you will never have good access to the outlet plumbing after it’s

been installed — so be sure to make a good job of it.

 Providing a cubicle

A shower tray is best

positioned in a corner, so that two sides of the shower enclosure are already

provided by the shower tray itself; you can bridge the gap with timber covered

with tiles set flush with the top of the tray.

 

 

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